Brand new Allen Edmonds Wingham burgundy calf tassel loafers thrifted today for $75. The price was a bit high for a thrift store purchase, but they’re completely unworn, the upper is perfect and they fit impeccably. Clearly, I couldn’t say no. I actually talked the clerk down $25 and probably could have haggled for a few more dollars off, but I was content with the price. Shoes that are new in box, made in America, Goodyear welted, and my size for $75, I’ll take it every day of the week and twice on Sunday.
These went on sale 17 minutes ago
Lots of great stuff on deep discount at Howard Yount. Most are loudly colored (and slightly obnoxious), but I urge you to embrace the loud. Just make sure to tone down the rest of your outfit with sober colors like navy, white, and shades of gray. Stock is limited. I only own a HY shirt, pocket square, and Marcoliani socks, but if I wasn’t set on pants I’d buy a lot of Howard Yount’s made in the USA collection.
Garment dyed cotton trousers: pink, green, burnt orange, plum, mid blue. The fabric varies, but HY’s made in Italy pants tend to have a mid/low rise and slim in the leg. See the measurements on each link.
Cotton Drill: emerald, navy. Italy.
Cotton Twill: pink. Italy.
Thin wale cord - gold. Italy.
Madras - blues, navy/gray, red/yellow/navy, salmon/blue/yellow. Made in the USA. Tend to have a higher rise and not as slim leg.
Cotton canvas: beige, kelly green, navy, sage, yellow. Beige is made in Italy, the rest in the USA.
Moleskin - buff. USA
Socks - black cotton pindot, black cotton birdseye, sage stripe. I’m only recommending OTC because they’re the only socks I wear. I’ve never worn the HY brand, but I have worn Marcoliani and they’re my favorite over Pantherella, Bresciani, and Brooks Brothers.
Silk knit ties - violet, pink, red with orange spots
Best eBay Watch List Ever!
Currently all these items are saved to my eBay Watch List. All are reasonably priced and in great condition, if not new. Most likely, I won’t bid on the items below; however, there are a few I have bid on that aren’t included. I’m playing those (sweater, pants, belt, tie, shoes) close to the chest.
Cable Car Clothiers double sided silk/wool scarf
BNWT Drakes green/white stripe tie (though I don’t think it’s a grenadine like the seller claims)
Luciano Barbera wool slacks 34 x unhemmed
Ralph Lauren suede loafers 9.5D
NOS J.Press Fair Isle Knit Hat
BNWT John Smedley red sweater Medium
Hermes reversible belt strap 46
AMAZING BNWT Belvest patch pockets navy blazer (I would absolutely bid on this if it was a 40L)
Unnecessary Luxury
Being in my late(ish) twenties, my summer/fall wedding schedule is slammed with friends and relatives tying the knot. As of this writing, two of the eight weddings I’ll be attending from June to September are black tie.
After searching for a tuxedo for almost a year, I finally bought one in January. My ideal tuxedo has a single button, peak lapels, side vents, flat front pants and is of the highest construction and craftsmanship possible. However, since I don’t have the income to purchase a Tom Ford or Savile Row tux, I “settled” on Polo. Settled being in quotation marks because it wasn’t much a settlement. It is gorgeous and very well made in Italy by Corneliani. It normally retails at $1600 and is now on sale for $850, but I scored mine at an earlier sale for $600, including tax. To top it off, I only paid $300 because my parents offered to pay for half. They were going to buy me a tuxedo from Jos. A. Bank for my cousin’s wedding, but I convinced them to put their money to the PRL one I wanted.
All in all, I’m very happy with my decision. It fits all my criteria except that it has double forward pleats, although that was my least stringent criterion. The jacket is a hair long, but since Polo doesn’t make a 41L I had to size up to have the jacket fit in the chest and shoulders. I’m not going to touch the length, so all I need to do is have the waist taken in. My only other complaint is the flap pockets, but those will easily tuck in, making that issue moot.
So, is it my ideal tuxedo? No. Is it some fully canvassed bespoke piece of art with impeccable fit and handsewn everything? No. But so what. It’s damn fine and I’ll look killer in it. I spent approximately $300 on a tuxedo that I’ll get years of wear out of. Frankly, I don’t think it makes financial sense to spend thousands on something I’ll wear once or twice a year. And that’s where the title of this post comes from - learning where in your wardrobe to target your money. For me it makes sense to put that money into shoes, outerwear, and sport coats (I hardly wear suits).
Now, for the rest of the black tie ensemble. I’m not 100% sure of what I want, but I know I want a very clean look. For the shirt I went to Brooks Brothers and bought a slim fit bib-front spread collar shirt with mother of pearl buttons during a 30% off sale. I like the solid whiteness of a shirt that isn’t broken up by black or silver shirt studs. Even better, I don’t have to spend money on studs! Again, strategically targeting my funds. For the cufflinks I desperately want a pair of sterling silver double knot cuffs that I could one day pass on to my son, but my wallet cannot afford that at the moment. Instead, I’m trolling eBay for a used pair and considering Kent Wang for more affordable options in silver and mother of pearl. For the tie I wanted to wear my grandfather’s black bowtie but upon further inspection it is satin. Since it doesnt match my tuxedo’s lapels, I’ll need to buy one. A cursory Google search only turned up Paul Stuart as a vendor for grosgrain black bowties, though I’m going to look for one at Cable Car Clothiers and Wilkes Bashford when I’m in San Francisco in a few weeks for work. For the waist I’m going with a cummerbund since my pants fit so well. Working down, I’m going with black silk/socks from Marcoliani at Howard Yount. Lastly, shoes. I have a pair of black Ferragamo pumps I got from my uncle, but they’re a bit large. I’m going to experiment with an insert under the tongue and a heel pad, but if that doesn’t work I might troll eBay for something similar. Again, this is not a place where I want to spend a lot of money. If worst comes to worst, I might just wear my black Allen Edmonds Park Avenues. I’m thinking I’ll gussy them up with a professional shine and silk laces.
Leviner Wood custom made “Neo-Neopolitan” sport coat for an unknown client. I’ve been looking long and hard for a soft, unstructured sports coat (USC), so this has me really intrigued for two reasons: I’m not the easiest to fit off the rack and being detail obsessed, I’d like to customize details to my specifications.
In terms of fit, I’m in-between a regular and long in most suits and sport coats. I like a hair short of the classic jacket length, so finding a jacket that covers my rear is hard in today’s cropped, Thom Brownesque world of USCs. Also, I have sloping shoulders which cause unwanted creasing in the jacket’s fabric above my shoulder blades.
Even though I really like the jacket pictured above, my ideal USC is a bit different. The barchetta pocket pictured is lovely, but I like the cleaner lines of a welted chest pocket. Also, I’d feel like a poseur wearing that style pocket on a jacket made in Richmond, Virginia. With a welted chest pocket I’d also opt for patch pockets at the waist that are not as angled as above. However, everything else is gorgeous. The shoulder is handsewn, the collar has leafed edges and the interior is beautifully sewn and clean. I’d add an interior iPhone pocket and a hidden ticket pocket in one of the patch pockets to hold my keys, but still keep the jacket lean and minimal in appearance. Come fall, I’m going to seriously look at something very similar from Leviner Wood. And so should you.
Images source: http://levinerwood.com
Polo Spring/Summer 2013. This is how I’ll be dressing this summer. I’m having a love affair with patch pockets.
BNIB Allen Edmonds Merlot Park Ave 9B
Richmonders looking for a good deal on shoes, check out this ad on Craigslist:
Paul Stuart Spring 2013. A blue windowpane unstructured sport coat is a must buy for me this spring/summer. PS, killing it per usual. My grandfather would be proud.
My love for LB continues. F/W 2013.
